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Natural Dyes

Traditionally colcha embroidery yarn was dyed with natural substances, some imported and some native, and many colcha embroiderers continue this practice.

Fine blues come from imported indigo, and red tones from cochineal from Mexico. Dye in one, then the other, for shades of purple. Overdyeing, first in one color and then the next, increases the range of shades available to the dyer.

New Mexico native dye plants include these and more:

Snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae) is a type of daisy or broom that produces yellows and greens
Cota (Thelesperma megapotamicum) gives rust and yellow shades, and also makes a good tea
Chamisa (Ericameria, multiple subspecies) is also useful for yellows
Juniper Root Bark (Juniperus sp.) dyes reddish brown
Lemita (Rhus trilobata/Rhus aromatica) can deepen from blues to black.
Ground lichens come in many types, most adding to the range of yellows and browns, but a few producing reds and purples

Colcha embroidery artist Julia R. Gómez with a basket of cochineal-dyed yarns (photo by Rebecca Abrams, September, 2020)

Different colors can appear from the same dyepot. If the yarn is prepared with a mordant chemical such as alum or iron before it goes into the color bath, the mordant will react with the dye to produce different shades. Wool mordanted with iron and dyed with snakeweed will be green, while the same wool prepared with alum and placed in the same dye bath will be golden yellow.

Dyeing on different shades of base yarn (white, pale gray, pale brown) produces interesting color shifts and heathering. Gradations can also be acheived by varying the length of time the yarn is in the dye pot. These are just a few of the skills that make delicate shading possible.

The Española Valley Fiber Arts Center offers natural dye kits and natural dyes for sale, and also has a newly refurbished dye kitchen members can use for a small rental fee. The Center's library includes many books on dyeing, and sometimes classes may be available as well.